Me at Lucy's Wedding. The sun does shine in England!

Me at Lucy's Wedding. The sun does shine in England!
Me still in England!

Sunday, 28 November 2010

Abuja

Returned from trip to Abuja for a meeting with colleagues from other states. Writing this by torchlight as the power has gone so may be a short blog!
So we got to the airport and went to pick up our tickets. Why the long delay? No electricity so they had to write the tickets by hand! I also noticed their unique luggage system-one poor man dragging each piece out of the airport and onto the tarmac then as you get on the plane you show him which is your piece to check it's there!
We stayed at a good hotel and at last I could ebjoy a warm shower and even have a bath. There was lots of food too so I could make up for lost time and eat things like lettuce and apples! It was also good to meet other volunteers and share stories. I went to the VSO office and finally got some living allowance but Lea still has not had his due to our problems with the bank. Then I met Nova and we had a meal in Dunes. Dunes is also a shop and it felt a bit like being in Aladin's cave after the shops here. There was so much choice but a lot out of the reach of the VSO allowance. I did treat myself to some conditioner which was nearly a whole day's allowance but desperately needed and not available here. I also bought two Mars bars which were also desperately needed! Then I had to get a taxi back and in the dark! Nova was very helpful and made sure the driver knew the way and got me a cheap price but as I set off I remembered the warning about not going out alone after dark and how people pretending to be police were getting into taxis and then kidnapping the occupants. Needless to say I sat in the front with my eye on the door handle ready to jump out if the need arose. It didn't and the driver was great.
The next day I met Lilian, John and David who were running the meeting. They are great people. Lilian is more my age and used to be a VSO so knew how things were. She took Lucy (another VSO) and I out for a meal, insisted on paying for it and provided us with a taxi driver she knew so we felt safe going back. I really enjoyed the meal and our chat. I got the driver's number too so I can call him when I next go to Abuja. Quite a lot of volunteers are having problems here especially with bank accounts and three have had accidents on okadas. I brought my helmet back but am very unsure about using the okadas as the roods here are so bad.
The meeting was really useful too and good to know what other states are doing and how far ahead Kwara is. It was really well run too and Lilian is clearly well respected.
The plane was only delayed by an hour and then it was back to my no ac accomodation and limited food selection but Lea had bought coconut juice which went well with the Mars bars and it was good to see him and Jayne again.

In the field

Think I'm becoming a real Nigerian??? Getting into the terminology! 'Flash' is when you want to give someone your number so you just let your phone ring once! 'Travelling' means you are going out and 'in the field' means you are in the community.
So I have been in the field this week visiting schools looking for examples of good practice. On Monday I went to a fantastic school where they are really making use of the lesson plans and really trying to take a more child-centred approach. Although there were 51 children in the classroom-they have to have two classes together due to lack of space- the two teachers made the most of their situation. They had displays everywhere, a numeracy corner and made teaching aids out of junk materials. They had cut out letters so every child had an alphabet pack and arranged the desks in a U shape to encourage all the children to join in. There was a lot of singing, rhymes and role play to keep the children engaged and they knew the children's names. In another class they were learning about capacity and went outside to fill cups with leaves and stones, The head showed me a television and video still in the box-not much good without electricity! I was able to visit this school twice and was made so welcome. It was a long journey down very bad roads but well worth the effort. At another school a bit further on a class 1 teacher was doing Letters and Sounds and had really got the hang of sounding out the words-which teachers here struggle with, They were learning the sound 'p' and singing 'Puff the candles out' with actions. Some children here had problems as their parents couldn't afford to buy them exercise books. A PTA meeting was going on with parents sitting on benches under the trees. Both schools were very basic but they were making the most of what they had. I took loads of photos and made a presentation so the powers that be can see the success of the lesson plans, Photos will be on my next blog. Takes ages to download so have to do them at the office.

Of course I had some adventures on the way to the schools. On my first visit I had to go to the Lgea-Local Government education office to meet everyone. This is always hard as they always remember my name but I meet so many at once often with names I find hard to pronounce that I forget them quickly which makes me feel bad. I addressed one man in Yoruba which he complimented me on but then said I needed to learn their culture and as he was a prince he would show me how to courtesy!
On my first visit we had to give some other colleagues a lift and on the way back I somehow ended up in a meeting-still not sure what it was about-where I was presented with lunch. I am now officially allowed to look for a Nigerian husband as I ate my pounded yam and vegetabble stew! I also had to stand up and make a little speech about myself. Fumi, my colleague and Gabriel, the driver were great company on the journey back. Fumi got oranges for us and bought bananas for me-a third of the price I would have paid! I did not partake of the suya though-this is meat roaste on skewers at the roadside. Apparently they let you know which is roasted dog!
The SSIT members who arranged the visits for me and introduced me to the headteachers were very kind and helpful too and good fun.

Sunday, 21 November 2010

Markets

The Markets
Yesterday Jayne and I went to investigate the local hospital. I was very pleasantly surprised as it was very clean and welcoming. Appointments are unheard of which is a real bonus and we saw a doctor straight away who said there would not be a problem registering there. Unfortunately there is not an ambulance service here so all the more reason to be very careful crossing the road!
Inspired by the success of this meeting we decided to move on to the markets. Getting a tuc-tuc or taxi was problematic until a very kind girl told us to shout ‘oga’ which is market. After a fairly uneventful journey we arrived at the Emir’s Palace market and went in the materials market. This was fairly calm and full of women. The choices were amazing-so many beautiful patterns and colours. Eventually I chose two lots. You get either 6 yards or 10 and prices are from 1000n-about £4. There is some beautiful lacy material which I am thinking would be lovely for my outfit for Katie’s wedding which is 5000N. I also bought a head scarf for days when I can’t use my straighteners!
So then we got a taxi to the food market. Even though it was full we soon stopped to allow more people to enter. I found myself sitting on the gear stick but that wasn’t enough I was told to move up and ended up on the hand brake! Suddenly there was a crunching sound. The driver got out and a ferocious argument began. Just as Jayne and I were getting out with the aim of legging it somewhere the driver reappeared and we were told to get back in. It seems he had driven over some metal object off another driver’s car.
So we enter the market. Indescribable scenes of chaos greeted me. Cars and bikes, elderly people in wheelbarrows fighting for space down narrow paths. Hawkers and beggars, diesel fumes from generators, not to mention fires and smoke from burning tyres! People chopping large junks of meat surrounded by flies, whole cow heads on the ground..... There was even a little monkey on a chain. Determined, we entered and bought ‘greens’, apples and tomatoes. Exhausted by the heat and the fumes we got a taxi back. This taxi had been completely stripped off all padding and it was interesting to see what the door was made of! Again there was an argument-about change this time but we were now seasoned travellers so just waited!

Finally got the mobile modem to work! After an argument with the person in the shop who wanted me to remove my Norton Anti-virus and said he couldn’t give me my money back until he had found someone else to buy the modem off me!

Thank you to everyone who is reading this. Special thanks to those who contacted Lucy about Adam. I am pleased to say he is much better now.
It is absolutely boiling here! I am off to visit schools tomorrow and am going unaccompanied for the first time which is an adventure. I am also flying to Abuja on Thursday for a meeting so may get my helmet so I can ride the okadas here which are cheaper than the taxis.
This photo was taken from the taxi as I have been told people don't like having photos taken-wish I had risked it now. Stalls of skin and heads were something else!

Happy Salah


Photos of the celebrations at the Hon Commisioners house where we celebrated the Muslim New Year with lots of ram (politely moved to next person's plate by me) and nice cold drinks including wine!!! The white man in Nigerian clothes is Harold, a consultant from the UK. Hoping to get Lea similar clothes?????

Monday, 15 November 2010

My house and outside my neighbour is pouinding yam!


Four weeks

Four weeks!
Gradually getting used to being here!  Still find it hard to believe at times especially when I am walking down the streets! I am still a source of wonder to people who shout greetings to me which is very nice but does mean I have to keep smiling all the time! This can be a problem when I am sweat ing and my eyes are streaming! I have had a few problems with my eyes and one day they felt like they were burning so Sue kindly got a driver to take us to a pharmacy. It did bear some resemblance to Boots in that there were shelves of pills and medicines but the eye drops he prescribed were for eyes, ears and nose! Needless to say I didn’t use them. They gradually got better and I have to try very hard not to rub them. Apparently it is a common problem with VSOs as we are not used to so much dust and petrol fumes.
I have also been bitten where my feet must have stuck out of the mosquito net!
This week has been a bit quieter as there was a general strike on Wednesday so we couldn’t go to the office and were told not to go near government buildings. I did some lesson plan editing in the morning and went for a swim in the afternoon which was very nice. On Thursday there was an Output 3 meeting and I learned I am off to Abuja in two weeks for a meeting! I am also going to work with the SSIT team to try to identify some examples of good practice. I am looking forward to this as it will involve visiting schools which I really enjoy. We may visit some remote schools which will involve an overnight stay which could also be interesting and possibly challenge my bladder even more than the day visits!
Next week is Sala which is a two day Muslim holiday so not much work will be getting done although it will be a chance to catch up editing the lesson plans. I have just put out some washing and can now smell wood smoke! There are also several geckos playing chase up the wall by my undies!
Today is Sunday and I have just made banana bread which tastes okay if you don’t eat the black base-the oven only has one temperature-hot! We managed to return the kettle and came back with a larger one and a free bottle of bleach as it was cheaper than the first kettle. There are three supermarkets here if you want hassle free shopping at fixed prices-although yesterday the owner insisted in carrying the basket round for us! You take your shopping to a counter and a girl writes down everything you have bought and the prices which she then adds up with a calculator. You then have to pay another person who takes the money and gives you your change! Choice is quite limited but we get the rest from the street shops and hawkers. On Friday we had white sweet potatoes which we made into chips. Eggs are sold singly and quite cheap as are tomatoes, bananas and onions and we have even been able to get apples. I found a place near the office which sells my favourite doughnuts with the boiled egg inside. Often in the office someone will send round biscuits or fruit juice to celebrate an event. We got sweets on Friday which were nice. I bought a KITkat a few days ago but it wasn’t the same and was quite expensive.
We have not had much NEPPA because of the strike and my mobile modem is not working properly which is frustrating. However the house  feel more like a home now. We are enjoying living with Jayne who has cooked some more great Kenyan meals. We have a good laugh together and often walk to work together too. Some people asked about our house. Well it is really a flat. There are two flats downstairs –us and a bank manager who has been to England- and upstairs Oosi and Ante and their children in one flat and the owner and his wife and nieces and nephews in the other. Benga is one of the nephews and often pops down for a chat. He is a big help when things like the tap go wrong and offered to charge my laptop during the strike. The other flats have their own generators which come on when NEPPA goes. This adds insult to injury as we then not only have no power but also have to listen to the din made by our neighbours  generators!
So, to get to our house you have to go through the yard, where someone revs up a car about 6 every morning, and then through another gate, down the path and ours is the second door. Take your shoes off in our verandah area and enter our living room which has armchairs, settees and a table and carpet. You then go through to the dining area complete with fridge, food cupboard and blue plastic table and chairs. On the left is a dark corridor which leads to the bedrooms. Ours is the first on the right. It is a large room and now has two desks as well as a huge bed and wardrobe. A bathroom leads off which I have scrubbed furiously with bleach and hopefully convinced my gecko friend he would rather live outside. We have had a cockroach and a few maggots crawled out of the cabbage but that’s all so far-although I have seen a snake on my travels. Off the dining area is the kitchen with a sink and wooden unit that is coated in ant powder! There is also a cooker with a gas bottle and a stand for the water filter which we no longer use as the water tastes disgusting. There are some shelves and there is also a very dark pantry area with a door where we keep pots, pans, plastics and boxes. Outside the kitchen is another verandah area and outside there is a place to hang washing and apparently throw rubbish!
Yesterday we also went swimming again which was a welcome relief from the heat. After we had a lovely afternoon at Sue’s house playing with her gorgeous children and their little friend who is the daughter of a work colleague. Lea finally got to watch a football match so he was happy too. I had a lovely time drawing with the girls and then we played outside  for a while. Probably why I am sunburnt now! We enjoyed the egg and chips too and the cake the girls had made.
It has also been a worrying time as Adam, my grandson has been ill and is in hospital with a form of meningitis. I feel so helpless but I believe he is on the mend now. I will not get my passport back for at least 4 more months as that is how long it takes to process a resident’s permit which is not a nice situation to be in. However I could get back home in an emergency if I needed to. If anyone is reading this and knows Lucy please tell her I have been thinking of her. It is Adam’s birthday on the 17th so hope he is able to celebrate it. I had a lovely video from him and Jake, Carrie and Aimee before he was ill. I miss them all so much so it is great to receive something like that even though it took 2 and a half hours to download as the  internet speed is so slow here!
To  end on a lighter note. Lea has to go on buses a lot and on Friday when he got out he realised there were two sheep under his seat! He also tried to close the door and then realised there wasn’t one! Another time the back door suddenly swung open and a huge wheelbarrow fell out. It just missed a Fulani tribesman who was then told he had to help the driver get the wheelbarrow back on the bus!
Finally a few things I miss-apart from my wonderful family and friends
·         Dark chocolate
·         Brillo pads
·         Real milk
·         A hoover
·         The news
·         Marmalade
·         Cheese
·         Wholemeal bread
·         My bed
·         Traffic lights